What is Etruscan Revival Jewellery?

Etruscan Revival jewellery’s popularity with the Victorians was a blend of history and craftsmanship

18/02/2025    

Etruscan revival jewellery is an ornate style of jewellery that became highly fashionable in the 19th century. It was inspired by the intricate designs and techniques of the ancient Etruscans in what is now modern-day Italy between the 8th and 3rd centuries BC. Although the Romans are commonly seen as the greatest power of the ancient world, many of the sophisticated innovations such as canals, roads and grid-planned cities credited to them were, in fact, of Etruscan origin.

The Etruscan Revival movement was sparked by archaeological discoveries made in the early 19th century. Excavations in Italy, particularly in Etruria (modern-day Tuscany), unearthed a wealth of ancient artefacts, including exquisite gold jewellery which was often buried with the deceased. These findings captivated the imagination of the public, leading to a resurgence of interest in Etruscan art and influencing other areas of design, including architecture, furniture, and decorative arts. 

 

Carl Bucherer - an Etruscan revival charm bracelet

Sold for £4,500

 

Etruscan Revival jewellery is characterized by detailed motifs like animals, leaves, and faces on brooches, rings, necklaces, bracelets, as well as Parures which are complete sets of matching items. While the ancient Etruscans often used gemstones in their jewellery, the revival pieces incorporated both precious and semi-precious stones. Garnets, agates, and chalcedony were among the popular choices, adding colour and brilliance to the gold settings. The use of stars as a motif illustrates the incorporation of Victorian tastes, and so Etruscan Revival jewellery is often regarded as a fusion between Etruscan and Victorian design.

Nobility and the wealthy commissioned jewellery from makers such as Alessandro Castellani (1823-83), who honed the technique of granulation, the placing of tiny balls of precious metal on the surface of a piece creating texture. Another popular technique was that of filigree, the art of twisting fine gold or metal wire soldered together or laid on to the surface of the metal to create pattern. Credited with reviving goldsmithing practices from the ancient world, Castellani’s jewellery was much copied by others at the time, and his original pieces are highly sought after now.

 

A Victorian Etruscan Revival style pendant on chain

Sold for £2,000

 

Etruscan Revival jewellery’s popularity with the Victorians was a blend of history and craftsmanship, with a focus on highly detailed, sculptural designs. The jewellery is still popular and wearable today and there is a vibrant collectors’ market for pre-loved and heirloom pieces.

Dawsons friendly team of qualified jewellery Valuers can provide expert sales advice based on current market valuations and guarantee the highest standards of consistency in assessment and authenticity.

With extensive industry and current market experience, our friendly team of experts provide a seamless service covering valuation, logistics, marketing, and sale… Dawsons’ creative social media posts and dynamic in-house marketing will directly target buyers and collectors all over the world, to ensure the highest returns for clients.

A late 19th Century French Etruscan Revival necklace and earrings suite

Sold for £1,700

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Nicky Houston

Nicky Houston

Our Head of Department - Jewellery, Silver & Watches... Nicky is a highly respected Auctioneer & Valuer, who had dreams of becoming an artist. Whilst she may not have made it as a successful artist herself, Nicky has helped many a customer to successfully sell and buy beautiful pieces of jewellery and works of art over her many years working within the auction industry.

 

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Are you thinking of selling any Etruscan jewellery?

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Get in touch with an expert Valuer for confidential sales advice, we would be delighted to help you:

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