19/03/2025
Gemstones are mineral or organic materials that are regarded as exceptionally beautiful and very rare. Cut and polished, they have been used in jewellery for centuries, signifying wealth and status. Myth and legend have endowed gemstones with powers to protect the wearer with strength and health, realise spiritual enlightenment, or attract the heart’s desire. Today we wear birthstones for many of the same reasons.
With over 300 gemstones in existence, traditional classification divided gemstones into precious and semi-precious, with Ruby, Emerald, Diamond and Sapphire constituting those deemed ‘precious’. This label was intended to reflect the scarcity and purity of the gemstones, their translucent colours and their hardness.
However, this system, which originated in the 19th Century, can be rather misleading and has been subject to change. Perhaps the most contentious element is that of scarcity. In the early 19th century, amethyst was considered a precious gemstone but was reclassified after large deposits were found in Brazil and Uruguay.
Cartier Kashmir sapphire and diamond flower brooch
Diamonds remained on the ‘precious’ list but they are not rare, ever since the discovery of huge South African diamond mines in the late 1860s. However, they have been skilfully marketed and the DeBeers diamond cartel controls global diamond production and the supply. By controlling the market, diamonds are still perceived as rare which keeps value and prices high.
The distinction between semi-precious and precious gemstones seems meaningless when one considers that a rare and flawless example of a semi-precious stone such as a demantoid garnet, an extremely rare, green gemstone from Russia will be worth much more than a poor-quality diamond of the same size.
A large, perfectly round natural pearl of iridescent lustre is considered more desirable than a ‘muddy’ sapphire, simply because one is significantly rarer and of better quality than the other.
Victorian Kashmir Sapphire and diamond cluster hinged bangle
Gemstones such as Paraiba, Jade and Aquamarines of excellent quality are also extremely valuable due to their scarcity, while Tanzanite is said to be about 1000 times rarer than diamonds and is only found in the foothills of Kilimanjaro.
Therefore, it is not surprising that the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) has recently asked that ‘members should avoid the use of the term ‘semi-precious’ in describing gemstones’ in the organisation’s code of ethics.
Therefore, at Dawsons, our jewellery experts and gemmologists consider all gemstones to be precious, and value them based on criteria such as dispersion (how white light is ‘broken’ down into a rainbow of colours as it travels through the gem), hardness, lustre or cleavage (how the gem breaks under stress). It is interesting to note that although hardness is a considered a virtue some gems, such as Emeralds, are relatively ‘soft’ and will be cut, and often set surrounded by diamonds, in order to protect them.
Diamond three-stone Kutchinsky ring
Many of the criteria can be assessed and evaluated by our experts in-house but we also use independent testing labs to ensure the accuracy and consistency of our assessments, giving clients absolute confidence in our valuations.
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Our Head of Department - Jewellery, Silver & Watches... Nicky is a highly respected Auctioneer & Valuer, who had dreams of becoming an artist. Whilst she may not have made it as a successful artist herself, Nicky has helped many a customer to successfully sell and buy beautiful pieces of jewellery and works of art over her many years working within the auction industry.
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