The World’s Most Famous Jewellery Designers

When it comes to exquisite jewellery, the names behind the designs are just as important to collectors and connoisseurs as the pieces themselves, increasing desirability and adding considerable value. Here, we explore 8 of the most recognised names (coveted brands) in iconic jewellery creation.

^{A spectacular Cartier Kashmir sapphire and diamond flower brooch}

^{Lot 184 – 21st Sept 2023: Sold for £340,000}

Cartier: At the forefront of fine jewellery for more than a century is the French maison, Cartier. Established in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, this firm mastered every material and gemstone they encountered with exquisite craftsmanship and careful consideration, producing some of the most exceptional pieces of jewellery in history. Coveted by enthusiasts and collectors worldwide, their signature collections include the Love bracelet, the Trinity ring, the Tutti Frutti range, and the Panthère jewels.

^{A Tiffany & Co. diamond solitaire ring}

^{Lot 32 – 22nd Feb 2024: Sold for £2,600}

Tiffany & Co.: Synonymous with classic and elegant designs, Tiffany & Co. is well-known for the use of high-quality diamonds. The creation of their Tiffany setting was instrumental in the rise in popularity of solitaire diamond engagement rings and remains a universally recognised standard within the industry. Formed in 1837 by Charles Tiffany and John Young, the firm has collaborated with many leading designers including Jean Schlumberger, Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso, affirming the American jeweller’s innovative reputation.

^{Van Cleef & Arpels - A floral spray brooch set with diamonds}

^{Lot 233 – 15th Dec 2022: Sold for £10,000}

Van Cleef & Arpels: The first Van Cleef & Arpels boutique opened in 1906 and quickly gained a reputation for high quality meticulously designed jewellery. The French house pioneered the “invisible” setting, the “Minaudiere” and the zip necklace. The Alhambra series is one of their most desired collections.

^{Boucheron - A diamond-set starfish Ring.}

^{Lot 146 – 18th Jan 2024: Sold for £2,000}

Boucheron: This eponymous firm opened its’ doors in 1858, founded by Frédéric Boucheron who was one of the first to produce exquisite plique-a-jour enamelled jewels. He was the only successful French buyer at an auction of the French Crown Jewels, where his purchases included a 6.28ct diamond that he would gift to his beloved wife. Well-known for their assortment of animal creations including the Serpent Bohème collection, Boucheron are considered great sculptors of gold, resulting in jewellery that is creative and daring.

^{Boodles. An 18ct white gold and diamond pendant necklace from the 'Circus' collection}

^{Lot 801 – 30th July 2020: Sold for £5,800}

Boodles: This esteemed British firm originally specialised in pawnbroking and second-hand jewellery and has been an independent family business since its inception in 1758. Hailing from humble beginnings in Liverpool, there are now nine Boodles stores throughout the UK. In 1990 Rebecca Hawkins joined Boodles and has since been responsible for creating revered collections such as “Hug”, “Raindance” and “Wonderland”.

^{Graff. An 18ct yellow gold and diamond bangle}

^{Lot 218 – 22nd July 2021: Sold for £13,500}

Graff: Laurence Graff was just eighteen years old when he forged a partnership and opened a jewellery shop. Just four years later, in 1960, he launched Graff Diamonds. The firm has represented several notable diamonds including the Windsor Yellows and the Wittelsbach-Graff Diamond, Graff’s passion for diamonds quickly earned him the reputation of “King of Diamonds”.

^{Bulgari. An 18 carat white gold, sapphire and diamond Serpenti necklace}

^{Lot 176 – 19th Aug 2021: Sold for £6,600}

 Bulgari: Founded in 1884 by Sotirois Voulgaris, BVLGARI is one of the oldest Italian jewellery houses (with Greek roots). Renowned for creating trendsetting pieces inspired by classic Roman themes with a modern twist, one of their most in demand collections is the Serpenti.

^{Andrew Grima. An 18ct yellow gold, diamond and rock crystal brooch}

^{Lot 7 – 23rd Sept 2021: Sold for £6,000}

Andrew Grima: Andrew Grima is recognised as one of the great modernist jewellery designers of the 20th century. His designs drew inspiration from art, sculpture, and the natural world. Each of Grima’s pieces are unique works of art and remain highly sought after. 

Each of these designers has left an indelible mark on the world of fine jewellery, captivating audiences with their innovative designs, exceptional craftsmanship, and timeless elegance.

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