17/01/2025
Every Autumn Paris, Milan, New York, and London play host to the fashion world ahead of the Spring/Summer collections for the following year. Enthusiasts, buyers, celebrities, and clients that descend on the shows are photographed from every angle, while the shows are critiqued and disseminated in print and on social media. Long before the new year is in, key themes will have emerged from respective fashion house collections that will inform what we will wear, how we wear it and how we accessorise… and this includes jewellery.
Fashion provides a joyful antidote to our current economic and political environment… 2025 will be no exception to this cyclical process.
Chanel - a pair of Baroque-style cherub and faux pearl drop earrings
This year, as always, some designers incorporated a dark, futuristic element but, of course, this is high fashion and what post-apocalyptic outfit would be complete without a nod to haute jewellery? In this case, anything goes, so amongst the mixes of silver and gold, it was interesting to see large, sculptural, brooches, and earrings, reminiscent of 1960s Pierre Cardin.
The 1980s continue to inspire, with W magazine describing collections as ‘having all the hallmarks of the Dynasty costume department’. High-end costume jewellery such as Chanel came to mind with the use of playful strings of pearls and oversized beads such as those sent down the runway at Anthony Vaccarello.
A Chanel simulated pearl necklace
Perhaps the biggest theme was what W Magazine coined ‘Boho-riche’ which could be seen at Chloe, Armani, and Valentino, among others. A modern interpretation of a bohemian aesthetic, these collections featured many steers from the 1970s, including chunky rings and nature-inspired jewellery of the time. The pieces on the runways conjured up Andrew Grima, the London jeweller of the 1960s and 70s, who’s colourful, modernist deigns have attracted attention from designers such as Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada. Spectacular cocktail rings, organically shaped pendants, and textured gold are all trademarks of Grima, whose antique pieces have a burgeoning and enthusiastic collectors’ market. Indeed, pre-loved Grima jewellery commands significant prices at international auction houses like Dawsons, who can reach hungry buyers wherever they reside across the globe… It is no surprise that Grima jewellery frequently far exceeds estimate ranges.
Andrew Grima. An 18ct yellow gold, diamond and rock crystal brooch and matching earrings
At auction, pre-loved branded jewellery represents good value as well as an opportunity to obtain the cachet of a world-renowned fashionable brand at a fraction of the retail price, whilst pre-loved jewellery is also regarded as a sustainable and ethical choice for discernible buyers.
In terms of future buying tips and jewellery trends beyond 2025… After many years in the sun, gold is still king but there are rumblings that the silver hues are about to feature heavily. Described as clean, fresh, and minimalist one can see pre-loved pieces such as those by Danish Designer Georg Jensen having a surge of popularity. Watch this space!
For those thinking of selling… Here at Dawsons Auctioneers, we hold monthly Fine Jewellery, Watches and Silver sales, and can therefore respond fast to fashion trends. Our in-house jewellery experts work with world-renowned gemmology labs to ensure that the pieces are accurately assessed, whilst our marketing team create bespoke marketing to showcase jewellery to a global audience of more than 10 million known buyers.
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