The History of Grima Jewellery

Andrew Grima revolutionised jewellery in London’s swinging sixties, leaving a legacy beloved by modern designers such as Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada. So, how did an engineer working in the accounts department of a jewellery business become known as ‘the father of modern jewellery’?

Andrew Grima came to England from Italy in 1926 when he was just five years old, in a move prompted by the rise of Mussolini. In 1946 he took on an accounting role in the jewellery business of his father-in-law, HJ Jewellery, where the young man started to design pieces by himself.

^{Andrew Grima. An 18ct yellow gold pendant necklace}

^{Sold for £7,700} 

Unconstrained by traditional ‘rules’ of what should be done with gemstones and precious metals, Grima developed a signature design style that was bold, abstract, and sculptural. He was fascinated by texture and developed a technique for fusing gold wire together so that it had a bark-like, rough appearance, using diamonds to highlight other stones rather than as the main event of a piece. This unorthodox approach was not initially well received in the UK and so Grima travelled widely throughout northern Europe, establishing a successful business by the late 1950s.

However, in 1961, Grima was invited to show at an exhibition organised by the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, and it was here that his jewellery would attract the attention that would spark 15 years of celebrity and award-winning royal patronage, capturing the flamboyance of the age as exemplified by Mary Quant, Biba, and The Beatles.

^{Andrew Grima. An 18ct yellow gold, diamond and rock crystal brooch}

^{Sold for £6,000}

Known for his pendants, cocktail rings, and clip-on earrings in gemstones such as Amethyst and Citrine, his sculptural, deconstructed shapes bridged the establishment and the artistic community, attracting royalty and stars to his London Jermyn Street shop. Situated in the middle of traditionally stuffy St James, the shop featured the world’s first Perspex spiral staircase and showcases set in integrated seats which contributed to the James Bond party aesthetic. Everything about Grima was modern, exciting and worlds apart from the timid postwar output of traditional jewellers.

When Lord Snowdon bought a piece for Princess Maragaret and Prince Philip followed suit by buying the Queen her famous ruby brooch, Andrew Grima was awarded a Royal Warrant supplying royal gifts and was cemented as a leading British export. At the peak of the business, Grima was employing 60 goldsmiths and producing 2000 one off pieces a year with shops in Sydney, Tokyo, Zurich and Madison Avenue (New York).

^{Andrew Grima. An impressive 18ct yellow gold, diamond, jade, and opal pendant}

^{Sold for £5,000}

Andrew Grima died in 2007, but his legacy is continued today by his wife Jojo and his daughter Francesca, using some of the same goldsmiths that worked for Grima in the heyday of the business.

Over the years, Dawsons has provided expert sales advice to many clients with pre-loved Andrew Grima pieces, whilst our in-house marketing team can reach an enthusiastic global audience of collectors and eager buyers. Years of experience and expertise will ensure that your Andrew Grima jewellery will achieve the best price at auction and, should you wish to add to your collection, we will be happy to help you place a bid on one of our monthly Fine Jewellery sales.

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Nicky Houston

Our Head of Department - Jewellery, Silver & Watches... Nicky is a highly respected Auctioneer & Valuer, who had dreams of becoming an artist. Whilst she may not have made it as a successful artist herself, Nicky has helped many a customer to successfully sell and buy beautiful pieces of jewellery and works of art over her many years working within the auction industry.

 

Jewellery Silver & Objects of Virtue Watches

Are you thinking of selling any Andrew Grima jewellery?

With a global audience of more than 10 million known bidders, Dawsons can secure the highest prices.

Get in touch with an expert Valuer for confidential sales advice, we would be delighted to help you:

0207 431 9445 / info@dawsonsauctions.co.uk