Does Bulgari Jewellery Hold its Value?
Bulgari itself describes its collections as ‘a strenuous commitment to magnificence’
20/01/2025
‘The only word Elizabeth knows in Italian is Bulgari.’ So said Richard Burton of his wife, Elizabeth Taylor, summing up the fame of the quintessentially glamourous and prestigious jewellery firm. Founded in Rome in 1884 by Greek silversmith Sotirio Bulgari, the firm became known for its jewellery in the 20th Century, particularly in the 1940s and 50s when the style we now associate with the firm emerged.
Bulgari. An 18 carat white gold, sapphire and diamond Serpenti necklace
Bulgari has always stayed true to its origins, with designs reflecting the classical shapes and motifs of ancient Rome and Greece. The Monete collection mounted genuine antique coins dating from 300BC to 300AD (reflecting Roman and Greek heritage) in earrings and pendants, and the colourful Cabochon gemstones (not faceted, simply shaped and polished) were intended to recall the cupolas of the Roman landscape. In 1948 the first iconic Serpenti pieces were launched, with jewelled serpents as watch bracelets and necklaces. When Elizabeth Taylor wore her Serpenti bracelet on the set of Cleopatra in 1962, the collection captured the public’s imagination and has been highly sought after ever since.
Bulgari. An 18 carat white gold, sapphire and diamond Serpenti bracelet
These collections are expensive and luxurious, incorporating astonishing gemstones as well as unconventional materials such as steel, porcelain, silk and wood. When Bulgari itself describes its collections as ‘a strenuous commitment to magnificence’, the aim is to be bold, striking and extraordinary.
The firm’s prominent position in the highly fashionable Via Condotti (Rome), attracted the attention of stars such as Gina Lollobrigida, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly, amongst many others, drawn to the high-octane pieces, making the brand internationally famous. In the 1970s, the firm expanded into Europe and the US, and pieces have featured prominently on the silver screen in films such as ‘Mission: Impossible 2’ with Tom Cruise or heaped in a dazzling pile on Sharon Stone’s bed in ‘Casino’. Now, stars such as Bella Hadid, Zendaya and Naomi Scott front campaigns for the brand bringing Bulgari very much into our present-day consciousness. These are films and stars that reflect the lavish glamour associated with the brand.
Bulgari. A lady’s Serpenti Spiga single spiral watch
With such a heritage, there is a large collector’s market for Bulgari jewellery, especially for those pieces with ‘daring volumes’ of gemstones. The pieces hold their value as they are synonymous with glamour, luxury and exquisite craftmanship although a lot of the most important pieces are held in museums or by Bulgari itself. In fact, when Elizabeth Taylor’s jewellery was auctioned off after her death, the New York Post asserted that Bulgari had bought back a staggering $20 million of their own pieces.
Dawsons have sold many Bulgari pieces recently including the Serpenti watch bracelet, rings, watches, and pendants. Strategically marketing pieces to a global audience, we can ensure that bidding is competitive, and the best possible prices are secured for our clients.
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Nicky Houston
Our Head of Jewellery, Watches & Silver... Nicky is a highly respected Auctioneer & Valuer, who had dreams of becoming an artist. Whilst she may not have made it as a successful artist herself, Nicky has helped many a customer to successfully sell and buy beautiful pieces of jewellery and works of art over her many years working within the auction industry.
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