Dawsons take a closer look at Grima Jewellery

Andrew Grima is arguably the most influential jewellery designer of the post-war period. The Italian-born artist’s self-taught skills have left an undoubted imprint on the world of jewellery years later. His designs have changed perceptions of jewellery not only internationally but on a global scale and is regarded by many as the Godfather of modern jewellery. Grima’s pieces are admired for their vibrant arrangements, unique materials, and breath-taking colours. Pieces included beautiful seashells, South Sea pearls, deep-purple amethyst, and luminous citrine, to name a few. The gemstones become a central part of Grima’s wearable pieces, which were very different from his more traditional diamond-focused pieces when he first began sketching designs in swinging 60s London.

^{An 18ct yellow gold and walrus tooth ring. Sold at Dawsons £1,700}

Grima drew inspiration from art and the natural world around him (as shown with the unusual walrus tooth ring above), and his designs injected some much-needed originality into the jewellery scene post-war. The creations carried their weight and value, not in their carat weight of expensive diamonds and precious gems, but rather in their aesthetic composition and appearance.

^{An 18ct yellow gold, diamond, emerald, and opal pendant. Sold at Dawsons £2,300}

In the 1960s, the Anglo-Italian became the go-to jeweller for the British Royals, celebrities, and socialites. Some of his earliest clients you may recognise include HM The Queen, Princess Margaret, and Jackie Kennedy. One of his most impressive moments was winning the De Beers Diamonds International Award a record number of occasions - 12 times, to be exact! Another outstanding achievement was when he was commissioned by watchmaker Omega to create one of the most notorious and fearless watch collections of all time... The 'About Time' collection.

^{Greenland watch from Andrew Grima’s groundbreaking “About Time” collection. The watch face, which is overlaid with a slice of pink tourmaline, has been set into the gritted gold bangle. Estimate: £20,000 - £30,000 (credit: The Jewellery Editor - luxury online magazine)}

In this collection, Grima designed a total of 86 pieces for the collaboration, comprising watches, jewellery, and pillboxes. The watches in the ‘About Time’ collection all had one theme in common; each watch face was either seen through a precious stone or concealed by one (as shown in the example above). An extremely collectable collaboration to this day, pieces by Grima and Omega are fetching increasingly high prices under the hammer. His interest in natural forms was apparent in his work and often took the form of pearls and opals.

Do you have an item of Grima jewellery, or indeed a Grima watch that you would like valued, or to learn a little more about?

Why not get in touch with Dawsons' team of trusted jewellery & watches specialists who will inspect your item(s), tell you a little about them, and provide a free auction valuation. 

We would love to hear from you: 0207 431 9445 / info@DawsonsAuctions.co.uk