Are Cameo Brooches Worth Anything?
The value of a cameo brooch can vary widely depending on several factors
08/04/2025
Cameo brooches hold a unique place in the world of antique jewellery, their rich history and intricate craftsmanship are much cherished qualities. They are distinguished by raised relief images, which are intricately carved from materials such as shell, coral, agate, or onyx. The technique which makes use of the natural contrasting layers of material, known as 'a due strati', dates to the ancient Greeks and Romans. Cameos frequently portrayed classical scenes of mythological figures, portraits, or religious iconography, delicately etched into the surface of the material. The Great Cameo of France c. 23 AD, is a spectacular example of the early art, where a highly detailed scene of 24 figures was created out of five layers sardonyx. The skill, precision, and expense required to produce this imperial cameo would have conveyed great prestige to the owner.
A large Early Victorian shell cameo by Tommaso Saulini
The classical revival of the 19th Century describes a movement which sought to incorporate classical elements into art, architecture, and fashion. Both Napolean and later, Queen Victoria, were avid collectors, and this filtered down to popular fashion, with the shell cameo that we are familiar with today featuring heavily in jewellery, particularly brooches which were often set in gold.
Skilled craftsmen such as Tommaso Saulini, a 19th-century Italian cameo carver, were revered for their exceptional skill and artistic vision. Saulini's cameos often feature classical themes and portraits which were commissioned by aristocrats visiting Rome on the Grand Tour. His detailed and beautiful work was commissioned by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert and sits today in the Royal Collection and the V&A museum.
A large Victorian shell cameo brooch with a biblical scene
As a result, Saulini's reputation as a cameo carver has made his works highly desirable in the antique jewellerymarket, and collectors and enthusiasts are willing to pay a premium for brooches that are recognised as his work. Recent examples of Saulini work coming on to the market include a large Early Victorian signed shell cameo depicting the side profile of Charlotte Susan Campbell which was commissioned when the sitter travelled to Rome on her honeymoon in the early 18th Century, which sold at Dawsons in February 2025 for £750.
Of course, the value of a cameo brooch can vary widely depending on several factors, including the quality of the carving, the material used, the condition of the piece, and its provenance. However, it is true to say thatcameo jewellery remains highly fashionable today, featuring in recent collections by Dolce & Gabbana and Liz Swig, and this is reflected in the popularity of pre-loved pieces.
A Victorian shell cameo brooch
The team at Dawsons have extensive experience in handling antique jewellery, and we would be delighted toassist in selling your heirloom cameo brooch. We offer professional appraisal and valuation services to determine an estimate value of your piece and provide a platform to reach potential buyers and collectorswherever they may reside globally. By entrusting your brooch to Dawsons, you can be confident that it will be showcased to its best advantage, ensuring that you receive the best possible return on your piece at auction at one of our monthly fine jewellery sales.
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Nicky Houston
Our Head of Department - Jewellery, Silver & Watches... Nicky is a highly respected Auctioneer & Valuer, who had dreams of becoming an artist. Whilst she may not have made it as a successful artist herself, Nicky has helped many a customer to successfully sell and buy beautiful pieces of jewellery and works of art over her many years working within the auction industry.
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