Does Chanel Jewellery Hold its Value?

From a tiny hat shop in Rue Cambon in 1910, to the global fashion powerhouse we know today, the house of Chanel revolutionised the way women wore clothes, and jewellery. If one thinks of the classic Chanel ‘look’, one thinks of tweed suits, two-toned pumps, quilted handbags and eye-popping jewellery. In fact, there are two kinds of Chanel jewellery – high jewellery and costume.

^{Chanel - a pair of Baroque-style cherub and faux pearl drop earrings}

^{Sold for £2,400}

Until her death in 1971, Coco Chanel launched only one high jewellery collection ‘Bijoux de Diamantes’ , a collection of 45 pieces, in 1932.  However, she revolutionised jewellery by creating costume pieces to compliment the clothes in her collections and shape a ‘look’, symbolising her style.

Faux pearls, brass and poured glass by Maison Gripoix enabled experimentation with the bold design Chanel is famous for and, what was hitherto known as junk, became a chic and accessible opportunity to wear a branded piece without the price tag of the high collections. Costume jewellery with its quirky and frivolous pieces were now considered a legitimate high-end fashion accessory.  The line between real and fake had been blurred. As expert Harrice Miller put it in a 2021 interview with Christie’s… ‘Fine jewellery often lives in the vault — costume jewellery is out in the world as personal adornment.’

^{A Chanel simulated pearl necklace}

^{Sold for £3,100}

The appointment of Karl Lagerfeld as Artistic Director in 1983 marked the start of a halcyon period in high jewellery with the acquisition of skilled craftspeople such as Maison Desrues, the artisan button maker, whose skills culminated in the 1993 launch of Chanel Fine Jewellery. The event was celebrated with a reproduction of the Comete diamond necklace from the 1932 collection, and the opening of the Fine Jewellery boutique at 18 Place Vendome.

Famous collections such Sous le Signe du Lion (2013), Coco Crush (2015) and Les Bles de Chanel (2016) all reflected the design, craftmanship and exquisite materials familiar to devotees of Chanel, and they also came at a high price.

^{Chanel - a pair of swing earrings}

^{Sold for £2,000}

Lagerfeld’s tenure also oversaw the incorporation of the instantly recognisable interlocking Cs logo (1921) into pieces which became the focus of the costume jewellery.  Chunky charm bracelets, large pendant earrings, camelia brooches and sautoir-length strands of faux pearls epitomise the elegance and sophistication that we associate with the brand.

Chanel represents timeless style and, although fashions come and go, there is a vibrant, global collector’s market for both high and costume jewellery, with pieces remaining as relevant today as they were decades ago.  Rare pieces in excellent condition are prized and, although often imitated, an expert assessment can authenticate a piece.

Dawsons have sold many pieces of Chanel costume jewellery recently. Our team of jewellery experts will provide a complimentary valuation, whilst our bespoke marketing reaches a huge global audience, in order to command excellent prices for clients.  In fact, a recent jewellery auction in October 2024 saw a pair of Chanel acrylic and rhinestone sphere oversized earrings sell for £2000, a price more associated with those of fine jewellery collections.

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